The Collector’s Edit

At this budget: Pure silk with both yarn directions resist-patterned; a more elaborate design than the simplest documented motifs, coherent across the full saree; a named Patan workshop and origin confirmation. Complex multicolour masterworks are the Coveted Ten grade and are quoted individually.

Before buying: Ask which yarns were resist-patterned and which workshop made it. Double ikat is a technique and Patan a place — ask about each separately, and keep Rajkot single ikat as its own comparison.

At this budget: Handwoven pure mulberry silk with a substantial, well-drawn border and pallu; tested zari is acceptable when disclosed. Authentic silk-thread-border Kanjivarams start lower, in the Regional guide; heavy pure-zari bridal work is not promised at this budget.

Before buying: Ask about korvai and petni only if claimed, and have the seller point to each junction; ask for the zari grade in writing.

At this budget: Handwoven Katan silk with kadwa motifs in the areas that matter to you, attractive drawing and an honest zari specification. Genuinely lighter kadwa pieces can be found nearer ₹20,000; this budget represents a fuller selection.

Before buying: Katan describes the silk yarn and kadwa a way of working motifs — ask for both separately, ask which areas use which method, and confirm the zari content.

At this budget: Handwoven pure silk with a well-drawn bird or floral pallu and a balanced border; half-fine or tested zari disclosed rather than assumed.

Before buying: Ask how the pallu is made and whether its method differs from the body butis; obtain silk, loom and zari specifications. Pure-zari heirloom pieces are a separate budget.

At this budget: Woven silk with crisp, readable figure panels and a sound ground; Swarnachari described separately rather than assumed superior.

Before buying: Ask what yarn makes the figures and how it is introduced, and open the whole pallu to follow the frames into their corners.

At this budget: A fine, even handloom ground, well-spaced woven motifs and a maker-stated yarn description. The finest handspun muslin, with exceptional figures, is the Coveted Ten grade and costs more.

Before buying: Ask how the motifs are inserted, what controls the pattern and how the loom is operated; ask which yarn, direction and system any count refers to.

At this budget: A full saree (not a mekhela chador) with a fine Muga ground and a well-executed border and pallu; restrained rather than ornate motif work is perfectly acceptable. Printed sarees marketed as Muga are a different product.

Before buying: Ask what fibres and silk species are in the warp, weft and motifs, and what any label actually verifies; golden colour alone cannot identify Muga.

At this budget: Hand-tied bandhani on pure or Gaji silk, a woven grid and a refined pallu, with the zari type disclosed.

Before buying: Ask whether the grid lines are woven and the dots hand-tied — each part separately — and for the exact zari specification.

At this budget: Pure handwoven silk with clear bandha motifs and a well-balanced border and pallu, distinct from cotton entry grades.

Before buying: Ask which yarns were resist-patterned and which effects are additional woven ornament; a silk name alone does not establish double ikat.

At this budget: An original KSIC silk saree with its hologram and unique identity number, bought from KSIC or a verified outlet. The official catalogue and the colours in stock are two different things; confirm the article you want.

Before buying: Check the hologram and identity number against the invoice, and ask for this article’s zari specification rather than assuming pure gold.

At this budget: Fine hand-tied bandhani on silk or Gaji silk with dense resist-dot work, good colour harmony and a documented fabric and border.

Before buying: Ask how the dots were made and whether the silk is pure, blended or Gaji silk; tiny irregularities alone are not proof.

At this budget: A handloom cotton saree (not a two-piece set mundu) with a tidy border and adequate opacity; the border thread described, not assumed to be gold.

Before buying: Ask whether it is a saree or set mundu, where it was woven, and what the border thread contains.

At this budget: A light handloom silk–cotton (or disclosed cotton) with a clean geometric border, a soft practical drape and restrained zari.

Before buying: Ask whether it is cotton–silk or pure silk and whether it is handwoven; a reversible border is not proof of origin.

At this budget: Light silk–cotton with a discernible woven texture, a tidy border and restrained zari; handloom confirmed on the exact piece. Pure-silk Chanderi is a separate grade.

Before buying: Ask which fibres are in the warp, weft and motifs, how transparent it is, and what lining or petticoat it needs.

At this budget: Handwoven cotton–silk with visible woven khats, a light finish and a modest border; pure-cotton Kota is a lovely lower-cost parallel.

Before buying: Ask whether the grid is woven or printed and whether the cloth is cotton–silk or all cotton.

At this budget: Lightweight Uppada silk with woven Jamdani motifs in the pallu or body, grade and zari declared — not plain Uppada silk.

Before buying: Ask how the motifs are inserted and how the loom is operated; a Jacquard attachment does not by itself mean powerloom.

At this budget: Handloom cotton or disclosed silk–cotton with clear resist-patterned geometry, comfortable from workday to weekend.

Before buying: Ask which yarn direction carries the pattern and confirm the fibre and loom; the price selector follows the fibre you choose.

At this budget: Hand tie-dyed waves on a named natural silk, with restrained festive decoration.

Before buying: Ask whether the stripes were made by tying and dyeing the cloth or painted, brushed or printed afterwards; confirm the tying process, especially below boutique prices.

At this budget: Handloom tussar with a characterful surface, assured fibre composition and a polished fall — not a blend marketed as tussar.

Before buying: Ask about tussar content in both directions and whether the yarn is reeled, spun or both; confirm origin if Bhagalpur is the point.

At this budget: Practical Bengal handloom cotton with a clear woven border and a comfortable, durable weave; blouse piece not assumed.

Before buying: Ask whether it is handwoven and all cotton, border included, and how the maker advises washing it.